Hot Dish: blueberry lemon pancakes at the Brunch House

Tim Nokaj poses with his signature blueberry lemon pancakes. AMY SOWDER PHOTO

By AMY SOWDER

Some flavor pairings just make sense on a chemical level — and blueberry with lemon is one of them. The tartness of citrus cuts right through the confectionary sweetness of blueberries, brightening the whole thing with a citrusy lift. 

There’s even a physiological reason lemon works so well in food: Its acidity triggers saliva production, which heightens taste perception. It’s why a squeeze of lemon shows up everywhere, from grilled fish to summer salads. 

At the Brunch House in the Pound Ridge hamlet of Scotts Corners, that classic pairing is the foundation of the restaurant’s signature dish. 

And the secret weapon is a housemade glaze that culminates in something unexpected.

“This is what we’re known for since the beginning,” said Tim Nokaj, who runs the operation with his family. “I think it’s the classic combination of blueberry and lemon, plus our homemade glaze. We put it on everything from French toast to Oreo pancakes. It’s so addicting, people ask me if we sell it by the bottle.”

They don’t — at least not yet. But the glaze, made with cream cheese, is stealing at least some attention from that perfect fruit pairing. 

The pancakes themselves start with a classic flour-based batter, cooked to order. “We make them light and fluffy,” Tim said. 

The result is a tender, cloud-like interior dotted with the sapphire pearls, followed by a golden exterior, topped with fresh blueberries and finished with a zig-zag flourish of tangy-sweet cream cheese glaze that somehow tastes both indulgent and refreshing at the same time. The lemon plays against the richness of the cream cheese, keeping every bite from tipping into too-sweet territory.

The Brunch House is a family business in the truest sense. Leon and Vilma Nokaj, along with their daughter Bella and son Tim, opened the first location in Mahopac about four years ago, where it quickly earned a loyal following in Somers and lower Putnam County. When an opportunity came up to take over Blind Charlie’s Café, the family didn’t hesitate.

The space, long known to Pound Ridge regulars, got a fresh identity without losing its bones. The Nokaj family did a lot of painting, hung new sparkly pendant lights over the counter that hit a kind of retro-modern sweet spot, installed new countertops, and brought in their own dishware and those satisfying bubbly-textured water glasses. The vibe is elevated diner. It’s comfortable and casual, but with clear attention to detail.

The blueberry lemon pancakes are tucked into the menu’s “Keep It Sweet” section, where you’ll find classic, gluten-free, Oreo, cannoli heaven, cinnamon roll, Nutella, and strawberry shortcake pancakes, plus crepes, waffles and French toast. Expect new flavors on special, like a recent dulce de leche. 

The menu doesn’t stop at breakfast. You can get lunch or breakfast items at any time. And they mean it. “You can get a burger at 8 a.m.,” Tim said. 

Savory breakfast options run the full diner gamut: eggs Benedict and Florentine, omelets, fried chicken and waffles, and vegan-friendly choices as well. “We do a lot of things for kids,” Tim said.

The espresso machine turns out lattes and cappuccinos that would pair perfectly with a stack of those blueberry lemon pancakes. There’s also an ice cream case stocked with flavors of a local favorite, Longford’s, because why not? A liquor license is in the works, so spiked coffees, adult milkshakes and brunch mimosas may be coming sooner than you think. Parking is available in the lot out back.

The Brunch House is located at 74 Westchester Ave., Pound Ridge. 914-764-8000; Visit thebrunchhouse.com for more information.