What’s in Season: ‘Super sweet’ delicata squash at Honeybee Grove’s Market

Clockwise from left, pumpkins from Honeybee Grove, the farm's Sarah Coldwell, flowers from the farm field, and a basket of delicata squash. Amy Sowder photos

By AMY SOWDER

Many area farmers markets wind down after the initial bounty of fall, and the market at Honeybee Grove is no exception. 

But this Somers market still flourishes for one more Sunday, Oct. 26.

Nestled in Somers Town Center behind Rebel Yoga, the market sits in front of the cozy, colorful little Honeybee Grove Flower Farm, which also offers cut-your-own flowers in the summer and special events, artisan and holiday markets like the Dec. 7 Mistletoe Market and workshops year-round.

Earlier in October as the graying blanket of sky threatened wind and rain, a few vendors remained at the flower farm until closing time to sell their locally grown and crafted food. 

Fino Farms persevered under its tent of tables laden with apples, concord grapes, honey, greens, pumpkins, and yes, other squash.

Enter the delicata, a striped, oblong-shaped gourd named for its tender skin. 

“It’s super sweet, super creamy,” said Kay Fino, whose father owns the farm in Milton. “You can eat the skin, or peel it back and puree it.” Her family farm started harvesting delicata in the last week of September, and she expects to keep harvesting them through October.

The trick is to only pick delicata from the plant once the stem has dried out, she said. 

“We have a whole field dedicated to squash because they need room to spread their leaves, and they grow like crazy,” she said.

Once, this heirloom squash was too perishable to be widely available, but that changed when Cornell University scientists bred a variety resistant to mildew and mold.

Underneath the thin, edible skin in a cream or yellow color with orange or green stripes is a creamy, golden flesh that’s sweeter than its cousins. When cooked, the flesh is sugary, rich and moist like a sweet potato. Firm enough to hold its shape when roasted, baked, steamed, boiled or sautéed, the delicata is ideal for slicing pretty half moons (a favorite option for many chefs and homecooks alike aiming to up their plate presentation), rings and cubes. Delicata is smaller than spaghetti and butternut squash, so it’s easier to handle.

Botanically classified as Cucurbita pepo, delicata belongs to the cucurbitaceae family along with pumpkins, acorn squash, other gourds, cucumbers and zucchini. It’s also known as bohemian squash, peanut squash and sweet potato squash.

Fino likes how long the delicata keeps once you bring it into your kitchen. If you keep it in a cool, dry place, it can last up to three months. Don’t refrigerate delicata, as that will promote mold and mildew.

Delicata can be sliced lengthwise, the stringy pulp and seeds scooped out with the jagged teeth of a grapefruit spoon, and stuffed with whatever mixture of ground meat, grain, cheese and grain that suits your fancy for a fun fall meal. Fino recently mashed her cooked delicata to serve as a base for roast pork tenderloin with garlic-mustard sauce and white wine-braised leeks — “and it was so yummy,” she said.

Sarah Coldwell, owner of Honeybee Grove Flower Farm, is a delicata fan for a few reasons.

“It happens to be my favorite squash,” Coldwell said. “I slice it and roast it with a little maple syrup, sea salt and red pepper flakes. It’s just easy, and it’s a good size for a family.”

Honeybee Grove Flower Farm is located at 265 Route 202, Somers. 

Amy Sowder has worked for Bon Appétit, Women’s Health, Food Network, Farm Journal, Westchester Magazine, Chowhound, VeryWell, LoHud and USA Today. She edits Cook’s Illustrated magazine, writes for Everyday Health, and is writing a historical novel.